Ireland
The Rock of Cashel above green fields with grazing sheep in Ireland

Ireland

Emerald hills, dramatic coastlines, cozy pubs, and some of the warmest people you will ever meet. Ireland is romance and road trip rolled into one.

Ireland is best seen at its own pace, with time to wander and get a little lost. I plan the drive, the castles, and the stays so every day unfolds easily.

It is also one of the easiest places in Europe for an American first timer. English speaking, compact enough to cross in a day, and genuinely welcoming to visitors. If someone in your family has been putting off a European trip because it sounds complicated, Ireland is the one I point them toward.

Where to Go in Ireland

Dublin. History, literature, and lively pubs, an easy and walkable place to begin. Trinity College and the Book of Kells, the Guinness Storehouse, and Kilmainham Gaol fill two days comfortably. Two nights is right for most trips, three if you want day trips to Glendalough or the Boyne Valley.

The Wild Atlantic Way. The Cliffs of Moher, rugged coastline, and villages where the music never stops. This coastal route runs the whole western edge of the country, and the stretch through County Clare and Connemara is the scenery people picture when they picture Ireland.

The Cliffs of Moher in County Clare, Ireland
The Cliffs of Moher, County Clare

The Ring of Kerry and Dingle. Classic postcard scenery of mountains, lakes, and coast, one of the great drives anywhere. If I had to choose one, I would send you to Dingle. It is smaller, less bussed, and the Slea Head drive is the better road.

Galway, Cashel, and the heartland. Colorful streets, ancient ruins like the Rock of Cashel above, and green fields dotted with sheep. Galway is the best small city in Ireland for music and food, and it makes a natural base for the west.

Northern Ireland. The Giant's Causeway, the Antrim Coast, and Belfast, which has become one of the more interesting cities in these islands. Worth knowing that it is a separate jurisdiction with a different currency, which I sort out in advance rather than leaving you to discover at a till.

Driving in Ireland

This is the part that worries people most, and the part I plan hardest around. You drive on the left, the country roads are narrow with stone walls close on both sides, and the distances take longer than the map suggests. None of that should stop you, but a few things help.

Automatic transmission cars are a small share of the rental fleet in Ireland and they cost more and sell out early, so if you do not drive a manual I book that well ahead. I also keep daily drives short, usually under three hours, and I avoid routing you through Dublin city center on your first or last day.

If driving is not for you at all, Ireland works beautifully as a trip with private drivers or a small group tour, and I arrange either.

Rachel Falgout at St. Stephen's Green in Dublin, Ireland
St. Stephen's Green, Dublin

Where to Stay

Ireland's castle hotels and country manor houses are the real reason to splurge here. A night in a proper castle is the memory that sticks, and the good ones are small enough that they book out a season ahead. I mix those with characterful inns and town hotels so the trip has range rather than running at one pitch the whole way.

When to Go

May through September brings the longest days, greenest landscapes, and the best weather. June and September are my favorites: nearly as much daylight as midsummer, noticeably fewer coaches at the famous sites.

April and October are quieter and cheaper, with a real chance of beautiful days mixed in with wet ones. November through March is dark and damp, and many rural places close, so winter is for cities rather than coast drives.

Whenever you go, it will rain at some point. I plan around that, which mostly means not building a day that depends entirely on one view.

A ruined castle covered in ivy above green fields in Ireland
Castle ruins in the Irish countryside

Ways to Experience Ireland

Honeymoons, anniversary trips, and multigenerational journeys suit Ireland beautifully. I tailor the route to your interests, whether that is castles, coast, golf, genealogy, or a pint by the fire. It is also a strong group trip, because the pubs and the pace suit a gathering of friends.

Why Plan Ireland With Me

Ireland is best on a well planned drive. I map the castles, coast, and countryside into a route that flows, book characterful manors and inns, and look out for you every mile. I also keep you from the most common Ireland mistake, which is trying to circle the whole island in a week and seeing most of it through a windshield.

Ireland Travel Questions

How many days do you need in Ireland?

Eight to ten nights for a first trip. That gives you Dublin, the west coast, and the southwest without driving more than about three hours on any day. A week works if you skip either Dublin or the north. Circling the entire island in seven days is the mistake I talk people out of most often.

Is it hard to drive in Ireland?

It takes adjusting, mostly because you are on the left and the rural roads are narrow. Most travelers settle in within a day. The practical issues are booking an automatic early, since they are a small part of the fleet, and keeping daily drives short. If you would rather not drive at all, private drivers work well here.

What is the best time of year to visit Ireland?

June and September. You get long days and green landscapes with fewer crowds than July and August. May and early October are good value with more weather risk. Winter is best kept to Dublin, Galway, and Belfast.

Do I need a passport and do they use euros?

Yes to the passport. The Republic of Ireland uses the euro and Northern Ireland uses the British pound, so a trip covering both needs two currencies. I flag that in advance along with anything your route requires.

Is Ireland expensive?

Dublin hotels and the castle properties are the main costs, and both have climbed. Food, pubs, and countryside stays are reasonable. Shifting a trip from July to September often saves more than any other single change.

Can you plan a genealogy or ancestry trip in Ireland?

Yes, and they are some of my favorite trips to build. If you know the county or the parish, I can route the trip through it and arrange local help with records. Tell me what you know and we will work from there.

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